ScanNCut face masks!

A big thank you to all the lovely crafters who joined me over on the Makers Superstore page yesterday for my Facebook live on using the ScanNCut to cut fabric for face masks!

If you missed it, or want to watch it again to see how to make the masks, then you can find the video here :

https://www.facebook.com/104804484280818/videos/283671089479289/

DISCLAIMER – This mask (or face mask) does not protect the person against coronavirus. The goal is to stop the spread of droplets to reduce the spread of the virus. Strictly follow all recommendations from the government and health organisations to keep you, your family and loved ones safe.

*** NOTE – at the moment – Makers Superstore are offering a BUY ONE, GET ONE FREE on all their fabrics (Please check their website for current offers) ***

You need basic sewing skills and a sewing machine to complete this project. A fancy sewing machine is very nice (!) but a basic model will do the job well.

You can use ANY ScanNCut in the CM series or the SDX series to do this – my preferred machine of choice is the SDX2200D, at the time of posting (June 2020) – this is the current TOP OF THE RANGE of the ScanNCut family 🙂

If using SDX series – then use the BEIGE THIN FABRIC AUTOBLADE and your machine will take care of the settings!

If using CM series – use standard blade for quilting cotton and you will have to test cut – here are some cutting guidelines for you –

Brother have helpfully provided a guide on the basics of fabric cutting for both the CM and SDX series – this has suggested settings for the CM series and a troubleshooting guide:

https://download.brother.com/welcome/doch100985/SNC_DNC_fcb01en.pdf

Brother also have a basic guide to quilting which explains the difference between lengthwise, crosswise and bias grain – as this is a sewing project, we need to cut our fabric on the crosswise grain – see here for an explantion on grain lines, bias etc.

https://download.brother.com/welcome/doch100523/snc2_bqg02en.pdf


To make this facemask, I’ve used my ScanNCut SDX2200D (my preferred machine of choice!), sewing machine AND

FABRIC:

I’m making with these cotton fat quarter bundles from Makers Superstore -www.makerssuperstore.com

If you’re new to fabric, then a fat quarter is 1/4 of a yard/meter of fabric – made by cutting half a metre of the full fabric width and then cutting this piece in half vertically (cutting it by the width). Fat quarters allow you to get a better cut of the design rather than just a quarter of a meter/yard cut across the bolt of fabric horizontally.

You need a GOOD QUALITY QUILTING COTTON – thin or loosely woven cottons are no good for making face masks!

Winnie the Pooh 5 fat quarter pack –

https://www.makerssuperstore.com/item/Craft-Cotton-Company/DisneyTM-Winnie-the-Pooh-Woodland-Fat-Quarter-Pack-X-5/4H

Frozen 5 fat quarter pack –

https://www.makerssuperstore.com/item/Craft-Cotton-Company/DisneyTM-Frozen-2-Watercolour-Fat-Quarter-Pack-X-5/3O


ITEMS NEEDED

Any ScanNCut plus sewing machine (could handsew if you really needed to)

High tack fabric support sheet (optional – can cut paper or doeflex templates (label doeflex with self adhesive vinyl)

The CM900 and SDX machines come with a high tack support sheet in the box – replacements can be found here –

https://www.makerssuperstore.com/item/Brother/ScanNCut-4-X-High-Tack-Adhesive-Fabric-Support-Sheets-12-X-12/2V


Fabric – approximately 2/3rd of a fat quarter (see above for the fabric I used in my livestream)


NON WOVEN fusible interfacing – I use:
Vilene F220 standard iron on interfacing – it comes in both white and black – google around for the best prices.

Elastic, ribbon or cord.
Thread
80/12 sewing machine needle (I use Schemtz brand which are excellent quality)
Scissors
Sewing pins or clips.
Iron/ironing board or ironing pad.

Frixion Erasable Rollerball Pen  (ink vanishes when hit with a hot iron) – https://www.amazon.co.uk/Frixion-Erasable-Rollerball-Assorted-Colours/dp/B005349ER8/ref=asc_df_B005349ER8/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309920235837&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18429344498370846850&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045025&hvtargid=pla-424440815957&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

NOSE BRIDGE STRIPS ARE A *MUST* TO ENSURE A GOOD SEAL ACROSS THE TOP OF YOUR FACE MASK – (if you wear glasses and they fog up while wearing the mask then you don’t have a seal)

These are the ones I use:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B087M6JMSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Optional: I like to also sew and quilt, so to precut my fabric to go on the mat, I do use a rotary cutter, quilting ruler and self healing mat, but this is *entirely optional and not necessarily required* – this is the sort of items I use.

https://www.makerssuperstore.com/item/EZ-Quilting/Quilters-Tools-Essential-Kit/GF

PREP: Iron fabric (can lightly starch if you would like – I use Mary Ellen’s Best Press)

Pre cut fabric ON GRAIN – (fabric folded selvedge edge to selvedge edge) –

2 x 12″ WIDE by 8″ HIGH pieces of fabric (matching fabric – same fabric for both sides)


2 X 12″ WIDE by 8″ HIGH pieces of Vilene F220 fusible interfacing.


Create pattern – for my size (adult)

For the mask, you will need to cut TWO x Vilene F220 fusible interfacing and TWO x fabric pieces.

Select Basic Shapes – BA-A093 Perfect shape to create the style of face mask we’re going to make today!

Turn OFF aspect ratio – resize to 6.75″ high x 11.02″ wide (adult size – for other sizes, use fantastic resizing feature on ScanNCut then cut out of PAPER first to gauge size required)

Cut TWO x fusible interfacing on NEW LOW TACK MAT OR USED STANDARD TACK MAT – AND BEIGE THIN FABRIC AUTOBLADE.

*** DO NOT USE NEW STANDARD TACK MAT OR HIGH TACK SUPPORT SHEET TO CUT INTERFACING – IT WILL JUST STICK TO THE MAT AND CAN’T BE PULLED AWAY CLEANING (WILL SEPARATE)

** PLACE FUSIBLE INTERFACING GLUE (rough) side UP and SMOOTH SIDE DOWN ONTO MAT. (You don’t want to loose any fusible glue dots that might stick to your mat so do it this way)

Cutting fabric – you can either cut a paper or doeflex and cut the fabric the old fashioned way BUT I am going to show you how to cut fabric on the ScanNCut

Mat with high tack support sheet attached & BEIGE THIN FABRIC BLADE on SDX (standard turquoise blade for CM series)

Just place fabric square on the mat (BE AWARE OF THE GRAIN) and smooth it down with (I use the Brother brayer – does the job perfectly)

https://www.makerssuperstore.com/search?query=brayer

Scan in your fabric – MAKE SURE YOU HAVE NO LOOSE THREADS ON THE EDGES OF YOUR FABRIC THAT MAY GET TANGLED UP IN YOUR MACHINE’S ROLLERS

Position cut file over fabric – HAS TO BE ON GRAIN VERY IMPORTANT FOR SEWING PROJECTS – cannot rotate shape because otherwise you will be cutting on bias, which is stretchy, and your fabric will go out of shape, too much stretch is no good for a face mask!

CUT AND REPEAT


FUSE INTERFACING TO WRONG SIDE OF BOTH FABRIC PIECES – GLUE SIDE DOWN – (if you make mistake and get glue on your iron, then run it hot over a tumble dryer sheet and this will clean all the glue off – isn’t that magic?)


READY TO SEW!

I’m going to use my 1/4″ foot (if you don’t have one, use 1/4″ guide on bed of your sewing machine).

Right sides together, sew down both curved edges.

Rotate fabric to match seams. – TURN TOP SEAM TO THE LEFT, BOTTOM SEAM TO THE RIGHT TO NEST THE SEAMS – PIN IN PLACE

Turn piece upside down – nest/ match seams again – making sure seam is straight on both sides – PIN IN PLACE

CHECK WHICH END IS TOP OF YOUR FACEMASK IF YOU ARE USING A DIRECTIONAL PATTERN – AT THE TOP* – start sewing and backstitch about two and half inches in – backstitch at end.

Sew straight across the bottom.

TURN INSIDE OUT, ROLL SEAMS AND PRESS. PREPARE YOUR THE SEAM ALLOWANCE ON OPENING -FOLD IN RAW EDGES TO MATCH REST OF SEAM AND PRESS and PIN.


PREPARE TO INSERT NOSE BRIDGE STRIP – from seam – measure out and mark 1.75″ on both sides (nose bridge piece is 3.50 inches long).

INSERT NOSE BRIDGE STRIP – one pin across bottom, one pin across either end.

I like to use ZIPPER FOOT to top stitch – I use the edge of this as a guide.

Start TOP STITCHING at top right hand side – pivot and turn – BE VERY CAREFUL AS YOU APPROACH NOSE BRIDGE STRIP.

At start of nose bridge strip, (use needle wheel to test you are NOT going to hit the metal bridge strip – YOU WILL BREAK NEEDLE AND POSSIBLY DAMAGE THE TIMING ON YOUR MACHINE – YOU DON’T WANT ANY BROKEN NEEDLES FLYING INTO YOUR EYE) pivot and stitch DOWN four or five stitches

PIVOT AGAIN

MAKE SURE TOP OF NOSE BRIDGE STRIP IS FLUSH WITH TOP SEAM – run edge of zipper foot along the edge of the nose bridge piece until you reach next pin/mark – work out where end of nose bridge strip is – sew along to end –

PIVOT (use needle wheel to test you are NOT going to hit the metal bridge strip – YOU WILL BREAK NEEDLE AND POSSIBLY DAMAGE THE TIMING ON YOUR MACHINE – YOU DON’T WANT ANY BROKEN NEEDLES FLYING INTO YOUR EYE) pivot and stitch UP four or five stitches until you can get zipper foot to fit flush with edge of fabric again.

Continue to top stitch – go over beginning of stitches five or six stitches to secure.

Basic mask is done!

TIES/CORDS/ELASTIC.

More than one way to do this –

One way – decide which side of mask you want to be FRONT.

Insert elastic.

Turn over edges about 1/2″ inch – sew (backstitch at start and end) – again I use zipper foot.

Or can insert ribbon or cord – use pony beads to make adjustable.

Hope you found this useful! 🙂

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